Updating formica kitchen countertops
😉 If the wood is too rough for you, give it a light sanding with a palm sander.I did do this, as there were a few splinters sticking up that I wanted to take care of. Step 3 Once you are satisfied with the texture of your wood, give it a minimum of two coats (but I did three) of chalkboard paint.I would paint it black, then come back with a tiny paintbrush and maybe add some grayish-whiteish veining.
Initially when Grunt Labor and I did a “lazy job” of redoing this space, I painted the countertop.I put some wax on the foam applicator, applied it to the counter, let it sit for 20 minutes or so, then came back with the microfiber bonnet and buffed it.The polisher makes it sooooo easier to apply wax to pieces.And the countertops were caked on with so much grease and dust we had to use oven cleaner to remove it. I’d seen “countertop makeover” kits at Home Depot, but at over 0 a pop, I wasn’t ready to take the plunge. During my limited time researching this product, I’d learned from user reviews that this stuff was pretty toxic and would take three full days for the paint to cure.I think I make a pretty good case for why someone would want to paint everything just for the sake of freshening up the place rather than waiting on the true demo and remodeling to begin. Maybe we haven’t covered this before, but I’m first. In all fairness, this painting product from the Rust-oleum crew has only sixteen color options. Not only that, but the paint would not require priming if I were painting over laminate (which I was) and would stick to just about ) I found that the paint stick really came in handy on this project. ), I had read that the paint consistency would be important if the temps were going to drop lower as the paint dried (per the can’s instructions, you should only use this product when temps are between 50 and 90 degrees for three days in a row).